![]() Where a fastener has to be visible accent it using a low profile head stainless screw. In your case you would simply have to fasten such with say 1/8 stainless pop rivets along the edges and glass over the heads with the taped seams. I will make ample use of these on my build. thick for $5 a piece from a scrapped "Merry Go Round". This saves the labour intensive and messy steps of glassing over ply. I simply taper the edges to allow corners and joins where necessary, treating it as taped seam construction. From these i use the flat surfaces in place of marine ply. I am a collector of disgarded fiberglass pieces that contain ample areas of flat surfaces. Gunnerbill if the frame you have made up in wood allows you to sheet over and blend in with your hull/transom -no reason why it's exterior shape can't be duplicated in welded alum. While there are some small boats with larger transoms, and those will need a long shaft motor, most small boats will not require this. If for nothing else, peace of mind of not losing a 50hp. Closeup of transom (right) shows how bad wood was cut away and surfaces cleaned for the installation of new wood. What you have built could be ok but it might be a good idea to have an experienced/qualified person have a look at it. Once a sufficiently strong enough motor mount extension unit has been built the key areas to pay attention to are that the attachment fasteners be of sufficient size and numbers as well as be carriage heads or seated in big washers on the frame and a backing plate with big washers, locking nuts, locktite, on the inside of the transom. framed.It's hard to say if your design is sufficient without being on site to look over the transom construction makeup at the attachment area. Gunnerbill -see now I incorrectly read into your post it was a day sailer- The framework you have constructed if well bolted to the transom and boxed in with ply, epoxy glued and screwed should be very strong but my preference for these motor hanging extensions has always been in metal, usually a welded boxed arrangement of 1/2 in. Perhaps a consensus on this thread will sway me. You make a sound argument for aluminum or steel and indeed may be the way I go as I have also considered the torque factor. If I go this way, the finished bracket will take the shape of a hull and look like one of those after-market, bolt-on transom extensions with swim platforms you see on the internet.I hope. These features have been abandoned by the modern outboard runabout which drags. ![]() ![]() It is currently as depicted: incomplete, all gussets not there, not glued nor fiberglassed yet, missing marine plywood all around and no motor mount yet. Moderate beam and a narrow transom give efficiency at low and medium speeds. And he can do it without sending his wife or the Coast Guard into a nervous. Think of her as a runabout with a wee little fore-deck, a small cabin for two and cockpit aft. But in manufacturers tests the engine, mounted on a 20-foot boat carrying. #Transom protector for outboard mounting wood runabout fullHer full dims are as follows: LOA:16'91/2" LWL: 15'6" Beam: 6'4" Hull: Semi - V Planing. I apologize if my initial description led you astray. Allow me to make a slight correction if you will.she's a cabin cruiser day boat, not a sail boat (day sailer) and meant for engine power. ![]() Hi viking north, thanks for replying with your thoughts & detailed info. Outboard Transom Saver Trailering Support and Steer Stops, Wedge Outboard Motor Support Fits 3-Ram Trim/Tilt Systems, Boat Motor Transom Support Compatible with Yamaha Outboard, Rubber. ![]()
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